Israeli cuisine conquers Paris, here follows our selection
A light and fresh breeze from the Mediterranean has blown over the French capital and brought with it excellent addresses to taste Israeli cuisine.
And Parisians are discovering a colorful and tasty cuisine, far from being only hummus and falafels.
Here follows a selection of some of the best Israeli restaurants in Paris, all tested and approved by Gastronomos with the help of Le Figaro content.
Artistic director of Sony in another life, Thomas Kolnikoff opened, in the heart of the Marais a little Mediterranean corner”.
In the kitchen, it is the Israeli chef Liran Tal juggling behind his open kitchen. The totems of Israeli cuisine are there: mezze (hummus, babaganoush, Evi Evane’s tarama…) served with a warm pita; cuttlefish à la plancha, served with eggplant, spicy chickpeas, merguez; arayes… Small plates, gourmet, fragrant, very well done.
Baba Marais. 17, rue Charlot (IIIe). Tel: 01 48 87 04 54
In a highly crowded dining district, you need style and a little soul to stand out from the crowd. Exactly what this Levantine cantina, with its green mosaic countertop, designer lighting and exposed masonry offers.
This one should not be overlooked, as it is the result of the same impulse of simplicity and sincerity. On the menu multiple appetizers: an excellent burnt tomato paste comes together with a creamy Turkish yogurt (which clearly calls you for a double dip) accompanied by delicious homemade bread. Labné, mesabaha (cooked chickpeas) and bottarga tarama complete the picture. The shawarma comes in land (lamb, free-range chicken) or sea (horse mackerel) versions, while the veal breast is crispy for twelve hours and seasoned with a strong root cream.
Mulko. 29, rue d’Enghien (Xe). Tel: 09 50 94 56 10. Tlj sf dim. and mon. Menu: 20-30 euros.
The Place. A former clothing boutique and exotic décor that has become a vast, bright cantina with a neo-industrial look, under the leadership of the slender chef Pierre Bouko Lévy (ex-Miznon and Mulko). The latter works behind the long concrete counter with a multicultural brigade. The music is loud, the place is alive: after all, “shouk” means “market” in Hebrew.
Of course delicious pitas (juicy kebabs, halloumi, chicken and chicken livers shawarma) are served here, but the meats, grilled with mangal (Middle Eastern barbecue), are also served on the plate. In the evenings and on Saturdays, small portions of carefully seasoned tapas complete the menu along with a selection of cocktails.
Shouk. 59, rue de Lancry (Xe). Tel: 09 87 57 87 68. tlj sf dim. and mon. Formula: 16 euros (already per week). Card: 25-35 euros.
An Israeli canteen that defines itself as the first Parisian “hummus bar” in a very informal setting with school chairs, cutlery holders made from tin cans, and recycled bistro tables.
A variety of hummus served on a plate with various side dishes, the carnivorous option consists of a mixture of ground beef and lamb, pignoles, chickpeas, pickled onions and parsley (12 euros). But the preparations are mostly vegetarian, rotating according to the season, there is option with cauliflower, spicy eggplant or mushrooms.
Chiche. 29 bis, rue du Château-d’Eau (Xe). Tel: 01 42 00 96 14.
Mizon may have been the first Israeli cuisine restaurant in Paris, it has been buzzing for several seasons on the Rue des Rosiers side. It was so successful that another branch was opened on the Saint Martin canal. And mambos, all the house codes have been kept: big open kitchen, colonies of cauliflower heads and other vegetables waiting to be cooked on the grill, loud music and a beautifully disorganized service…
Once the order is placed, everything will be out in a few minutes. The unmistakable cauliflower roasted to perfection, seasoned at the last moment with a touch of fleur de sel and a dash of olive oil is the silver of the house. But there are also the huge pitas ultra soft, stuffed with a beef bourguignon or lamb skewers, spicy fish of the day, ratatouille, among other vegetarian variations.
Canal Miznon. 37, quai de Valmy (Xe). Tel: 01 48 03 47 22. Tlj sf sam. Card: 15-25 euros.
Behind his yellow facade, hidden in the heart of the Sentier neighborhood, Yariv Berreby (formerly William Ledeuil’s Kitchen Galerie Bis and BAT) sends out hummus, eggplant caviar, and other very fragrant salads in a small cozy room. Besides the mezzes the house also offers meat and fish of the day, shakshouka, babka or malabi for dessert. The star of the house is undoubtedly the schnitzel served only on Wednesday (in a sandwich or on a plate), according to the recipe of the cook’s mother.
Salatim. 15, rue des Jeûneurs (IIe). Tel: 01 42 36 30 03
Nestling on the first floor of the Renaissance Paris-Vendôme hotel, this place manages to be chic and informal at the same time, Balangam which means “happy mess” in Hebrew, allows guests to discover the cuisine of Israeli chef delebrity Assaf Granit (Machneyuda in Jerusalem, Palomar and The Barbary in London): irresistible Cuban and Frenavon breads, unstructured kebab and tahina bar are on the menu. Owned by the Experimental Group, the place, decorated by Dorothée Meilichzon (long marble counter, blue electric stools), has a sharp and busy cocktail bar in the anteroom.
Balagan. 9, rue d’Alger (Ist). Tel: 01 40 20 72 14. tlj. Formula: 40 euros (brunch). Menu: 35-60 euros.
It is in a small restaurant with a sky blue facade and sunny interior (colorful pillows, white stone) that Keren Benichou and Kobi Malka, a Tel Aviv native trained in the Ducasse group, have settled in the Marais.
Excellent mezze dish served as a starter (cauliflower, beets and roasted sweet potatoes, hummus), but also some dishes where spices (“tavline” in Hebrew) take the lead, grilled fish balls with herbs and shakshouka complete the menu.
Tavline. 25, rue du Roi-de-Sicile (IVth). Tel: 09 86 55 65 65. Tlj sf Sun. and Mon. Card: 20-35 euros.
Another cantina dedicated to houmous, launched earlier this year by the Houmous Bar event duo a stone’s throw from the Canal Saint-Martin, in a very oriental setting. With excellent latkes with hot sauce, hallumi fries, roasted sweet potatoes and a chocolate babka dessert extraordinaire !
Levantine. 36 rue Bichat (Xe). Tel: 01 83 56 18 56. Tlj. Formula: 12 euros (breakfast), 22 euros (brunch). Menu: 20-30 euros.
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