The Best Onion Soup in Paris: A Ranking of the City’s Top Soups for You
A comforting dish perfect for Parisian winters, onion soup gratin deserves its own ranking. From Les Halles to Montparnasse, and across the city, Le Figaro has selected the best onion soups in Paris.
A Bit of History
Simple, hearty, and comforting, the Best Onion Soup in Paris has always been closely linked to the Les Halles district. Although its origins are not clearly dated and Lyon contests Paris for the paternity, it was in the early 20th century that it became popular, associated with late-night consumption in the area known as the “Belly of Paris.” Night owls and early morning workers—butchers, charcutiers, market gardeners, and other market employees—would gather around 4 or 5 a.m. to enjoy this affordable, hot, and flavorful dish, regaining strength before starting their day or heading home.
Today, highly appreciated by tourists, onion soup appears on the menu of many typical Parisian bistros and brasseries, and has made a strong comeback on modern tables. Even Michelin-starred chefs are inspired by it, revisiting it with sophisticated presentations and textures, turning it into signature dishes, such as those by Christian Le Squer (Le Cinq), Alain Passard (L’Arpège), and Thierry Marx (Sur Mesure).
In our ranking, we did not include these renowned chefs for fairness, focusing on the traditional recipe. Although it seems simple, onion soup requires mastery in caramelizing the onions, seasoning the broth, gratinating the cheese, and maintaining the bread’s texture (which should not become too soft in the bowl). As with all recipes, beyond the cook’s skill, the quality of ingredients is crucial. Jean-François Piège, the top winner with his bistro La Poule au Pot, would certainly agree.
Ranking Rules
Here are the rules and criteria for the ranking of the Best Onion Soup in Paris:
Method: 16 soups were tasted anonymously by journalists from the Restaurants section during the two weeks leading up to publication. They were evaluated according to a pre-established criteria grid.
Criteria Considered: The evaluation includes five categories, each with different scores, resulting in a total score out of 20 points. The criteria are: ambiance (decor, comfort) worth 3 points, presentation (choice of bowl, appearance of the gratin and broth) worth 4 points, broth (flavor, seasoning, presence of onions) worth 4 points, garnish (quality, quantity, and cooking of bread and cheese) worth 4 points, and finally, value for money worth 5 points.
Results: The Best Onion Soup in Paris
La Poule au Pot, a legendary night-time restaurant in Les Halles, founded in 1935 and acquired by Jean-François Piège last spring, leads the ranking, followed by the chic brasserie Zebra, now run by Alexandre Giesbert, and the bistro Les Enfants du Marché, located in the heart of the Enfants-Rouges market.
Chef Piège, who already holds two stars at the Grand Restaurant, earned a star for his bistro in just a few months, paying homage to the icons of bourgeois cuisine with exceptional products. His onion soup gratin, though pricey, is nearly perfect.
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