This was the first time that when I left a restaurant I was sure I had discovered something out of the ordinary. It’s the first time I’ve gone out and think to myself: this is one of the best restaurants in Paris! Romain Mahi, remember that name, will be one of the greatest chefs of his generation. I’m not surprised that with less than thirty years of age he won his first Michelin star, in the 2019 guide. The kid’s a genius!
Chef Romain Mahi
Formed in houses of great prestige such as la Tuffière, la Maison Blanche and Mandarin Oriental, Romain not only navigates the good waves of organic food and food wastage but also dictates trends using new techniques and ingredients from four giant kitchens familiar to him: the French, Japanese, Mexican and Peruvian.
The chef does a duet with the Japanese pâtisserie and owner of the restaurant, Ayumi Sugiyama
The two young chefs are perfectly complementary. Refined and relaxed, they present a cheerful, colorful and original style food. It is exciting to see how the accents meet, the kitchen is not separated from the pâtisserie, and the pâtisserie talks constantly to the kitchen.
The two chefs exchange information about the elaboration of dishes and the exploration of new flavors all time
Often, even in the most famous restaurants, we feel a clear distance between salty and sweet, as if they lived next door without ever talking to each other. Here, it is exactly the opposite.
The smoked goat’s cheese raviole with beurre noisette sauce seduces both for the balance of textures and the incredible smoky taste well marked. The association of cabocha pumpkin, tangerine and mizuna portrays the strong Japanese influences that permeate the entire menu.
The fish, a red mullet, with his confit leek and its Mentaiko sauce (also called red caviar) sails between the soft and the strong with an iodized and round flavor. To remind us that we are still in France, the chef proposes the traditional beef cheek so soft that it disintegrates in the mouth, served with tobinambour puree (Jerusalem artichokes), chips of shallots and a succulent reduction of meat broth.
The desserts of Ayumi Sugiyama challenge the codes with pride: chocolate-quince-emulsion passion fruit and mousse of miso-sorbet yuzu-dates Medjoul. A special mention to the combination of miso+dates, unprecedented and explosive.
The house also offers at the end of the meal a matchá chiffon cake (Ayumi’s signature). Do not refuse! It is like to bite a fluffy and fragrant cloud.
All this with an attentive and almost affectionate service.
A efficient and charismatic sommelier: Etienne Billard.
Comfortable chairs, a pleasant and tasteful atmosphere.
Congratulations to the whole team.